29 September 2009

The Luckiest Guy in the World

The end of another day here in Arusha.  Dinner (rice and vegetables) is done and I am picking away at the key board so aware of the value of this computer and having an internet connection.  It truly is a window to the world.  And what makes me feel particularly happy at this moment is the love I am receiving from my friends and family around the world.  I can't tell you how it can change a ho-hum day into one where I feel so loved, blessed and happy.  Thanks!

I had a great weekend here.  Saturday evening, after a busy morning and afternoon running around, I went with Caroline to an NGO networking meeting.  Not the turnout nor networking I was hoping for but apparently there was some missed-communication about the venue for the meeting and I think a bunch of people gave up when they showed up at Via-Via and were asked to pay an entrance fee to an art exhibition.  Those of us that showed up together at the same time went to a Japanese restaurant called Sazan, though I learned people were calling it "container".  "Strange name" I thought.  Why in the world are they calling it container and not by it's name, Sazan?  The restaurant, I discovered when we arrived, is actually built in a shipping container.  There were some nice folks there I had not yet met (a couple from Australia who started an orphanage here) and Kim, a new friend from Holland who is here starting her own NGO, was there.  I had not seen Kim in a couple of weeks so it was good to catch up with her.  I just love the Dutch!

After a couple of hours of outdoor seating at the container, Caroline and I met Paul, a good guy from Ireland at the Blue Heron and we sat lazily under the trees; them nursing there beers and me, my club soda.  Gary joined us, too.  Blue Heron is such a cool place; a restaurant, bar, dance floor, shop with local wares all under the most amazing trees and in the midst of a beautiful garden.  At night, the garden is candle lit and filled with cushy chairs, couches and lounges.  It felt strange because the crowd was 95% mazungu (white foreigner) in the midst of black Africa.  Where was I?  It could have been anywhere in Southern California.  Very chill.  We hung out there for awhile and I was inspired to hit the dance floor a couple of times on my own.  It felt so good to dance!  Caroline decided to make it an early night.  We had planned to hit Masai Camp but she wasn't up for it.  Gary said he would like to go and since I had not yet been there and I was all dressed up....well, off into the night we went.

Masai Camp is a huge compound covering acres with outdoor seating around camp fires burning and people catching up with each other.  The circus is in Arusha so some of the performers were on hand to give everyone a taste of the circus.  There were contortionists, gymnasts, and a lady who was dressed in very little shaking her backside faster than the RPMs of a jet engine.  She would have been hauled in for indecent exposure where I am from.  The crowd loved her!  It was nearing 0200 and I was past my prime for the night; seriously.  Just before we left, a girl from the really young crowd came up to me and asked "were you at Blue Heron tonight?"  "Yes, I was." I replied.  "Wow, you're a great dancer!" she said.  I started to laugh (like I can) and said "not bad for an ole guy, huh?"  I could have been her father.  Yikes.

More interesting times on the drive home.  We got lost trying to reach the school and the comfort of my waiting bed.  One wrong turn is all it takes when you are on dirt roads and there are not lights.  Poor Gary, poor me.  We couldn't pull it together for over an hour and finally Gary said "can we just go to my house tonight?"  I thought to myself "why the hell did you wait so long to say that?"  Naturally, I was panicking at the thought of driving around at 0330 not knowing where we were.  the panic escalated when Gary said "I hope we don't run out of gas!" (read: when Gary says he hopes we don't run out of gas, we probably will).  Thankfully for my heart, we arrived at Gary's place and crashed!

Sunday was a real day of rest with the exception of having to launder my underwear in a bucket.  I am living a life of constant camping routines!  Camping to me is the way more than half the world's population lives their daily existence from birth to death.  I joined Caroline to the Njiro Complex for lunch and to debrief with her piking up her stuff at her ex's place hours before.  Glad to be there to listen to her.  We saw at the complex some folks Caroline had worked with at a school here in Arusha so we joined them for lunch.

A couple of hours later, Caroline went home and I joined Paul for one of his famous and regular "sun downers".  Paul is a great guy.  He is working for the Irish Pallottine Order of the Catholic Church here.  The priests are building a new hospital about 5 hours away form Arusha in a remote area of the country and Paul is serving as their project officer.  When I first arrived Paul had me flipping out about everything that could happen to a foreigner here, from robbery to germs to safety to proper security when using the ATM, etc., etc.  Caroline and I get such a kick out of him.  He is a lovely guy.  He kind of reminds me of Norm from "Cheers".  Always looking for someone to join him for his "sun downer" or even for a beer before sun down.  By-the-way, I learned keeping a small bottle of anti-bacterial hand sanitizer in the car is a great way to wash off all those germs you probably picked up after doing whatever you were doing "out there".  Thanks to Paul and his contentious way of going about things.  He has been a good friend here, taking me on a tour of town a couple of weeks ago and showing me where all the NGOs are in town.  He's provided me with an abundance of reading material and reference material to get me going on my job search.

The "sun downer" started at the Kamara Lodge outside of Arusha.  A beautiful hill top lodge with free standing huts amidst the trees and a breathtaking view of Mt Meru and far in the distance and still under all the haze Mt Kilimanjaro.  I really have yet to see Kili in the month I have been here!  Feeling a bit dehydrated I delved into a 1.5 liter of water after chugging a club soda.  Paul enjoyed his (several) "Kili bridi" (cold Kilimanjaro Beers).  We coincidentally met a few of the people who had been at the NGO networking meeting the night before so we had a drink with them, too.

"Kuku and chips?" Paul asked as we walked out of the Karama.  I felt like I was crawling.  It was now 2000 (8:00PM).  "OK" I thought.  I hadn't eaten since about 1300 at lunch.  I said "I'd like to be home and in bed by 2100.  Do you think we can do it?"  "No way" Paul said.  "OK, lets go anyway" I said.  We stopped at Paul's place to close up the curtains and windows and then headed to our favorite place for kuku (chicken) and chips (fries), Nick's Pub.  There we met a couple of Paul's friends and sat with them.  Paul continued with his Kili and I with my water.  I got home at 2200 and went directly to bed!  A good weekend for sure!

I had such a great time in class yesterday with the students.  While I want to get out of being the proverbial English teacher while I am abroad, I have to say having 3 hours of contact with these students per week is amazing.  They show up here everyday half an hour early and leave an hour late.  They are so wanting to change their lives with English and other education, some of them in their twenties with only primary level education.  They are so sweet.  I teach a speaking class and asked them "what did you do last weekend"? so that they could practice the past tense.  It was great; a struggle for many, but I could see they were into it and trying hard.  The day seemed to fly by.

I went to Gary's for dinner to meet a friend of his who flies for Air Tanzania.  I always thought doing aviation capacity building would be great fun and perfect for me with my background.  In the end Gary's friend canceled (he had his dates wrong) and was in Thailand for simulator training.  Gary and I cooked another feast together (Hartebeast stew) with rice.  God, we can do it right in the kitchen.  When we left for the drive back to my place (less than 10 minutes) the car died just outside the driveway.  We rolled back into the gate, closed it and I spent the night and walked home this morning!

I couldn't really get into my groove today.  I was tired having not slept well last night.  Caroline took me to an NGO that restores bicycles so I could get some two wheeled transportation for myself.  They hadn't had a delivery in some time so I opted to ride back with her to the center and wait for the next container (not the Japanese food place) to be delivered.  I've made good progress on a funding proposal I am writing for the center so that feels good.  I also received an email tonight from an organization in Zambia that has my resume and want to talk!  Great news!

OK, time for bed.  Good night world.

26 September 2009

Nearly 4 Weeks in Tanzania and I Finally Arrived Today

I woke up this morning to a couple dozen of emails and Facebook postings from friends and family on my Blackberry.  The words were so meaningful, loving and supportive.  It came at a time when I was feeling a little defeated and down and immediately got me into the right head space.  "I am exactly where I need to be" I said out loud.

The weather is lovely today.  It continues to warm up and the sky is blue, albeit, with more than a hint of haze.  Although I was going into town with Caroline to the Masai Market and to meet a friend for lunch I threw on some shorts and a t-shirt.  Even planning what to wear and if-and-when- I would have time to come back to the school in Njiro to change (for this evening back in town) is a process.  This is what I am talking about when I say everything has to be strategized and well thought out when one is without transport.

I pulled a piece of cold chicken from the fridge, made my cup of Nestle instant coffee and went into the office to check email on the computer and back up my hard drive.  I played some instrumental guitar music on iTunes and got organized.

Caroline picked me up and off we went to town.  We had a vibrant, heartfelt discussion about me, her, the center, our dreams, our personal and professional hopes and the future.  Not being one to hold back (is this a blessing or a curse?) I delved right into what is happening in my mind about where I am, what I am doing, my fears, etc.  I told Caroline about how many wonderful offers of money and supplies for the center I had received already from some of the best friends and family a guy could ask for.  I told her I feel a little hesitant to fire up my crowd as I don't know if this is where I will end up and, in this kind of work (non-profit), you choose very carefully when and whom you ask for donations of any kind.  I want to be sure and committed to Caroline and the center before becoming a fund raising warrior (which, by-the-way, is on the best days and in the best economic times a tough job to have).  She gets it.  The fact does remain I can offer Caroline and the center a lot; as uch as she and the center can offer me focus and a project to run with.  Currently the center hasn't an American contact, bank account or fund raising activities so it would be a good partnership.

So, for those of you who know me, you know I can be rather intense when I get my mind set on something (I can hear more than a few of you laughing all the way over here in Tanzania!).  For me here, especially since my money was taken, that has created more urgency to find paying work.  I came here fully intending to volunteer for a time in order to build experience in the develop/ non-profit sector while certainly not giving up hope that a job would and could come from it.  I have been chasing myself around in my head filling my days with pressure and control over something on which I do not have a lot of control.  Sure I can continue to send out resumes (with or without tracking comments--hopefully without--thanks Kurt for offering your tech advice and assistance!!!), but as the day has gone on for me and I have come into contact with people I know I am doing exactly what I should be doing and I am exactly where I should be.

I went for a hair cut today just around the corner from the Masai Market.  Ali has a hair salon in his house,naturally behind a large, secure, solid iron fence.  The moment I walked in I felt this sense of relief.  I was welcomed by Ali who offered me a glass of water or tea and asked to sit down.  The Tabbie cat (oh, there are 2) immediately jumped on m lap.  While only still a kitten it was a bit aggressive about wanting to be loved and stroked.  I found there would be no way to sit down with this cat so I stood and walked around a bit while talking.

Ali (born in Dar es Salaam, third generation Tanzanian) is of Indian decent and lived in Vancouver, Canada where part of his family still lives.  I immediately knew I was going to like Ali.  He wore his hair up with a clip and is tattooed in many places; not your standard Tanzanian.  In his chair was the most beautiful, tall, blond woman.  Together they were having a grand old time laughing and talking about people and Ali's antics the night before.  I distinctively heard a Dutch accent from the lady, and as I always do when I hear that wonderful, familiar language asked "are you Dutch"?  She lit up!  "Well, yes, I am!" she said.  We introduced ourselves, talked about the other Dutch people we knew here in Arusha and listened to each others' stories.  Marion has been in TZ for 10 years with her husband and family propagating seeds and plants for export to Holland and on from there to North America.  Lovely, lovely, lady!!

Ali invited me to Masai Camp tonight where there is going to be live entertainment (perhaps a group from overseas, maybe dancers as well...?)  He assured me he would put me into contact with all the people he knew and in particular a lady from San Diego who runs an educational NGO here.  GREAT NEWS!  So, it was here at Ali's, at that moment, where I had my latest epiphany (they come and go, sometimes many times in the course of a day) thinking and even saying to Ali and Marion "I need to sit back, chill out and wait for things to happen here!"  They totally agreed.  "Tom," Ali said, "you are going to meet so many people in the kind of work you want to do.  Don't make any decisions so quickly!  You haven't even been here a month!"  Good advice from someone who has been here in Arusha for the past 16 years.  The universe provides.

I enjoyed lunch at the Naaz Hotel Restaurant with a lady I met a couple of weeks ago named Diane.  She is from Ontario.  We had such a nice visit.  It is so refreshing to meet people and find about about who they are and their life stories.  Diane is a principal who took leave, came to TZ to do something that "felt good" and ended up falling in love and now works for an NGO orphanage with it's board in the US.   We spent a couple of hours together where we enhoyed the first buffet I have eaten from in sometime.  You know, I think I hear more laughter all the way from the US again.  Beef, chicken, SALAD.  Ahhh, I would walk down the longest dusty road to eat there again.  And it only cost about $6.  Maybe I am feeling better today because I have eaten more protein today than I have in the past 3 weeks combined!  LOL!  Diane offered to take me on a walking tour of her side of Arusha next week and I gladly accepted.

Moody, the trusty taxi driver, gave me a lift back to the school.  He is a good kid, speaks excellent English and sends me kind text messages now and again about how sorry he is about the money and to check into see how I am getting along.  I am sure there is some self interest in it as well, like getting a fare when things are slow, but he is a good kid and good on him for having the mind to think about business as well!

So Caroline is back at 1700 to pick me up to attend an NGO networking get together at the bar Via-Via.  Again, here I will be meeting so many more people.  I am looking so forward to my afternoon at Via-Via and the evening at Masai Camp.

Until next time, thank you so much for the inspiration and supportive words from home!!  It has truly made my day!

Asante sana.  Kwa here!

PS:  Would love to post photos but still trying to sort out how to do it.  Also, it sucks up the time on the pay-as-you-go modem which Caroline is paying for, so I don't want to abuse her kind generosity in allowing me to use the modem in the first place.

25 September 2009

Lights Out

Just closing the curtains to settle in for a little writing when darkness strikes.  The electricity is off again.  Actually it has been on pretty steadily these last few days.  There was a brief outage last night but it came back after only about 45 minutes.  So, here I am at my desk in a dark house, flash lite pointing at my keyboard.

I sorted out my power cord issue.  The technician was unable to open the charger so instead cut the cord and taped it up.  Not exactly the fix I was hoping for but this is not Apple HQ in Cupertino, either.  It works and that's all that matters.

I tried to send an email out with the link to this blog and for some reason it will not send to about half the 170 addresses.  God, I don't know whether to just keep hating technology or hating myself for not learning about it when I had the chance.  I am

Some huge flying creature just flew by my face close enough for me to feel it.  Do roaches fly?  The flash lite is now pointed at the flying insect as it rests on Caroline's computer.  I hope it flies out of here as quickly as it made it in.

Flash: the bug is now in the garbage can.  Where was I?

Oh, yeah, about the bane of my existence: technology.  I just can't seem to figure stuff out on my laptop.  Months ago someone I asked to edit my resume did so by putting "tracking" on the document.  I couldn't figure out how to even read was what written by her doing so.  But now the bigger problem is removing it all together.  Ugh.  I ended up sending what looked like a clean copy of the document out as an attachment and, yes, you guessed it, it arrived with the tracking still on it.  Probably not the best impression to make when looking for work.  I will keep fiddling with it.

The weather seems to be getting more hot each day that passes.  It isn't terrible but it certainly isn't fall in the northern hemisphere either.  The breeze blows occasionally which feels great but with it comes the dust and dirt.

I'm working on a few different projects for Caroline and the center.  Today I spent the day on the computer creating information about the center that we can put on the walls so when visitors and volunteers come they can read about what we do, the students, our mission and how their donations can help.  There is an amazingly long list of things to acquire to make the center evolve into a top notch learning center.  From the biggies like land and buildings (very cheap here by American or European standards) to the most trivial like pens, paper, notebooks, books, well, you get the picture.  We would love to feed the students at lunch time as many/most of them come to school without having eaten breakfast.  They get some crackers/biscuits but don't really eat until they return home late in the afternoon.

I'm also working on funding proposals which I know I will enjoy as it relates directly to a part of development work I would like to know more about.  It will be good experience.  I am also doing outreach to other NGOs seeking resource material (books, pamphlets, brochures, posters) on issues like HIV/AIDS, relationships, gender equality, nutrition, hygiene, education, etc., for the library.  All good.

I took my first drive today in a month thanks to Caroline.  I went into town to recharge the modem.  Everything here is pay as you go.  Cell phones, internet, cable/satellite TV, etc.  I know you can get monthly subscriptions but I guess it is more expensive or who know what.  I felt such a sense of freedom being behind the right hand drive of the car as I cautiously cruised down the left side of the road.  Piece of cake.

The best  part of my day was when Caroline told me my niece, Maddy, had written inquiring about doing a fund raising project as a school project.  When I saw that email I was so proud and happy.  Caroline said "you are already attracting people to the center"!  Maddy, honey, thanks for writing and thinking about helping!  I love you and miss you!  We will be in touch because you will be the first fundraiser from the USA.

I am looking forward to my Saturday.  It will be a busy, fun day.  I am going with Caroline to the Masai Market to buy some items to send to her mom in Australia where she will, in turn, sell the items as a fundraiser for the center.  From there I am having lunch with a lady from Ontario, Canada whom I met a week or two ago at a large lunch for the volunteers who were leaving the center.  Diane works for an NGO here.  Tomorrow afternoon there is an NGO networking get together at the bar Via-Via which apparently, in addition to Nick's Pub and the Masai Camp, is a good place to hang out.  I have not been out for a late night yet here, but I hear things can go until 0500 in the morning.  Better plan for that and rest up.

On Monday I am going to buy a bike so I can join the gym and get some exercise and be mobile.  Leaving what I am use to doing for my health has been difficult.  No corner gyms, no transportation, protein that is not the best, expensive and well, kind of gross.  The poor chickens here don't have time to grow and nothing to eat before they are slaughtered so you can get a chicken that is, well, skinny and small.   I am looking forward to having wheels and spending time on the treadmill!

Here are some things I will leave you with on this Friday night:  Did you know?


·      Tanzania is one of the world’s poorest countries – it ranks 159 out of 177 countries.
·      40 million Tanzanians survive on less than $1US per day.
·      The Ministry of Education of Tanzania widely acknowledges the increasing illiteracy among the poorest people in the country.
·      More than any other form of education, Adult and non-formal education targets the poor and reduces poverty through knowledge and information.
·      The completion rate at primary school level is only 65 percent, an average dropout rate is 6.6 percent, a significant number of school going age are out of school and 29% of adults are illiterates.
·      Education contributes to poverty reduction and to the sustained social and economic development of the country.
·     Sustainable development will only take place if there is increased and improved levels of education.  Lack of basic education undermines all efforts to improve health and nutrition, and impedes efforts to address the cause of diseases such as HIV/AIDS and other illnesses.
·      The completion rate at primary school level is only 65 percent, an average dropout rate is 6.6 percent, a significant number of school going age are out of school and 29% of adults are illiterates.
·      The Umoja Centre exists because the formal system does not have the built-in capacity and resources to absorb all Tanzanians.

The following was on the black board in the classroom after Joseph, the local teacher at the center, finished his class.  I am not sure of the author or even if it is Joseph, but it struck me as beautiful and timely.
 


GIFT-ACCEPT IT
I have.
DUTY-PERFORM IT
Gladly.
CHALLENGE-FACE IT
Everyday.
PUZZLE-SOLVE IT
Oh, I am trying.
STRUGGLE-FIGHT IT
No giving up.
BEAUTY-PRAISE IT
I don't enough.
PROMISE-FULFILL IT
I will.
ADVENTURE-DARE IT
Well, I am here!
JOURNEY-COMPLETE IT
Oh yeah!



22 September 2009

A Night in Adminstration

Here it is.  The first post.  It began as an email to Chris to reply to her SMS message.  But after a few lines I thought "I need to start the blog.  Here goes:

I am sitting in the administration room of the Umoja Center ("Centre" for those of you in the UK).  A light bulb dangles above from the ceiling in what is a nicely appointed, colorful room with heavy wood furniture.  The call to prayer has just ended (or maybe it was the neighbor, no it is back) and the askari (guard) has just hacked up a big one and is spitting it out just outside the window.  I've received a few more mosquito bites in the last 30 minutes.

I am in Arusha, Tanzania.

I've just devoured a 1/2 chicken cooked on the gas stove with some veggies and red beans.  I passed on the rice tonight as the rice is beginning to collect around my gut.  So, enough of this Facebook type of "what are you doing right now" and on to just how I am surviving and getting along here.

I arrived in Tanzania (TZ) just three weeks ago tonight.  I spent a day in Arusha with Gary and the following day we took off with a couple friends' of Gary and headed to Lushoto.  Just up the mountain from Mombo on the highway to Dar es Salaam (Dar) lies this beautiful little village high up in the Usumbara Mountains.  I will post some photos of the mountain retreat outside of Lushoto because the views and natural beauty were breathtaking!

We broke down on the way to Lushoto.  Roman, Gary's buddy from France and his girlfriend Bianca, were with us which helped.  Bianca is from Uganda and was able to ride into the next town on the back of a motorcycle with Gary as well and Roman and I stayed with the vehicle.  Did I mention it appeared we were in the middle of nowhere?  A boy passed from one side of the road to the other with his cows wondering as much about what I was doing there as I was about him.  We also were left behind with Gary's BIG, MEAN, dog named "Chewy".  This is Africa!  This is my Africa!  The car was fixed with some clutch fluid, I took a Xanax and we were off to the dark mountains for a night drive.

Roman and I returned to Arusha by KLM Express Bus.  I am certain KLM has no idea how their name is being used in this country.  If it was truly a KLM bus I want a refund because it, too, broke down.  Roman and I ended up on a bus that made a lot of stops.  Gary and Bianca went on to Dar es Salaam; Gary to take care of business and Bianca for a check up.

Back in Arusha and staying on my own except for Amir, Gary's housekeeper, and his girlfriend and year-or-two old daughter.  I think it was fairly quick just when I realized transportation was going to be a challenge.  Gary's place is out in Njiro which is known to be a very nice area to live.  Amir helped me to the market and I was happy to hang out at home in a peaceful environment.  Amir is a body builder so I was happy to have someone to workout with and to visit with a bit.  I laid in the sun and networked on the phone everyday.  The internet connection at the house did not work and it took nearly 2 weeks to sort it out.  In the end I went to the Vodacom shop where I was told to see someone by name for help.  Elifuhari sorted me out in no time.

Gary broke down on his way back from Dar to Arusha.  He was somewhere on the Dar side of Mombo.  The transmission was bad and would have to be replaced.  At least 2 days.  5 days later Gary made it home.  I was happy to see him and that he was OK.  He left Chewy in Dar and returned with a 7 month old puppy of the same breed called "Meru" after the mountain that truly towers over Arusha.

I met a lady by the name of Dolygene through Gary on my first day in Arusha.  We had lunch.  Dolygene works for an NGO here in Arusha that does a lot of networking with other NGOs.  She was helpful and said she would check with some people to see if there was anyone in need of a newly arrived mwazungu.  Dolygene sent me the name of Caroline Goody (UK) who is the director of the Umoja Center (www.umoja.com.au) just about 15 minutes from Gary's house.  Caroline was facing some volunteer turn-over issues just as  I was feeling the need to make a move from Gary's.  Meru was peeing the floor at night and Amir the housekeeper had made off with $1500 in cold-hard cash from my wallet in the closet in the bedroom.  Amir had been with Gary for 11 years.  "I can always get home" I told myself, "but the problem is",  I continued, "I really want to stay"!  Yes, I did say it outloud!  I was panicked but at the same time I got this really philosophical feeling and thought "No need to trip out, its gone.  Make a plan".  The plan was to act quickly.

 So things are running together a bit.

I am now living at the Umoja Centre in accommodation below the house which holds the IT room and administration offices.  I am now the Project Manager of the center and tasked with building a donor data base (the lifeblood of any NGO), building the resource library and doing outreach to other NGOs for partnering options.  I like Caroline a lot as she is also becoming a friend.  As I just started I have yet to see where things will lead but it gives me an opportunity to help Caroline and teach an English speaking course twice a week to disadvantaged teens and young adults some without primary education.  It will keep me busy at a time when staying busy is important.  I have a couple of leads for permanent work with the Aga Khan Foundation and I learned today that there maight be something opened at the Hakikazi Catalyst organization.  Tomorrow.

I have just over an hour of battery charge on my trustworthy MacBook.  The power cord has melted or frayed so I have to find a new one, send for one or go without my computer so not sure when I will be signing back on.  A few random thoughts to leave you with:

I have seen a Tanzanian Police Station enough for the rest of my lifetime.

You might leave home clean but when you get home you are dirty.

Carbs rule in Africa.

Day or night (usually night) when one dog barks all dogs bark.  The neighborhood comes alive!

There is a lot to be done.

Loyalty means nothing when poverty rules.

A bike will do just fine.

I've been bit by the red ants!

Investigator Winnie Britha rocks at Arusha HQ!